HITTING THE RIGHT NOTE – A MUSICAL ODYSSEY by Bernard VanCuylenburg

HITTING THE RIGHT NOTE – A MUSICAL ODYSSEY by Bernard VanCuylenburg

Dear members & readers of eLanka, I have been extremely fortunate to meet, and, in turn, introduce all of you to Bernard VanCuylenberg, another good Dutch Burgher from Lanka, who, in my opinion, is a “Superb writer of Stories”, in poetic vein, “Bernard Van, is a man, who certainly can”.

There are not too many “writers” who are perfectionists.

Bernard is one of them and his expertise can now be shared by all of us. Every “story” coming in from Bernard will, of course, bear his name, as the writer. We are indeed lucky to have him write for us.  Desmond Kelly.

HITTING THE RIGHT NOTE – A MUSICAL ODYSSEY by Bernard VanCuylenburg

In contrast to the lyrical title of this article, I am compelled to refer to the writings of Celaleddin Rumi one of  the world’s greatest mystic philosophers who lived in the 13th century, in Turkey. His poetic and religious works mostly in Persian are some of the most beloved and respected in the Islamic world. He wrote “Jars of spring water are not enough. Take us down to the river !” In essence, what he was saying is that if you wish to get to the heart of the matter on any subject, go to the source. Do not be content with heresay or form your opinions and convictions by listening to others.

Growing up in that great educational institution by the river, Saint Anthony’s College in Kandy, my schoolmates and I were exposed to various genres of music   –  classical, pop, church music (particularly if one was a chorister) and oriental. Listening to the music of the day in college or at home during the holidays, and having read about the artistes and singers who influenced our musical tastes, and later played in bands after I left college, I harboured a desire to  – in some future time  –  go to the source where this music had its genesis. In October last year I gave wings to my dreams, literally.

Sitting in the Qantas departure lounge at Tullamarine International I wondered what awaited me at my destination. I was about to begin a tour titled “The Tastes and Sounds of the South”. At 9.30 am, the giant Qantas Airbus A 380 tore down the runway and gracefully lifted off into a clear blue sky with its complement of 414 passengers. My destination via Los Angeles was the city of Nashville, popularly known as”Music City USA”, a journey of twenty one hours and fifteen minutes, with a three hour transit layoff at LA International.

Nashville is a port city on the Cumberland river and is the capital of the state of Tennessee. It is a banking and commercial centre with a thriving printing industry. Most of the Bibles in the USA are printed in Nashville which has resulted in this entire area and most of the Mississippi Delta being referred to as”The Bible Belt”. But the city is more famous for her music publishing and recording industries, and is the hub of the country music business. For the music afficianado, a visit to the famous RCA Recording Studio B is a must ! This was one of the world’s most successful recording studios where the pop and country singers of yesteryear such as Roy Orbison, Jim Reeves, Charlie pride, Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, The Everley Brothers to name a few, and of course the most famous of them all ElvisPresley, recorded the hit songs which catapulted them to fame.

It was in this studio that I had a very special and surreal moment, when I was allowed to sit at Elvis Presley’s favourite piano on condition that I did not touch anything. I was told that whenever he came in for recordings he would sit at this piano and play his favourite gospel tunes……….If you are a country and western fan,visit the Country Music Hall of Fame and the museum, where there is an extensive range of memorabilia. For fans of the late Johnny Cash, a visit to the Johnny Cash museum will enrich your treasure of memories. Visit the Ryman Auditorium where the biggest stars of country music play to cheering audiences regularly.

The Grand Ole Opry is another iconic pearl in the chain of the country and western music business. It is home to the longest running live radio program which is also televised worldwide. I was fortunate to have been a member of the packed audience which witnessed this musical extravaganza. I had the privilege of meetingTommy Cash, the younger brother of Johnny Cash who entertained us for an hour with a medley of songs by his famous brother and some of his own compositions, interspersed with a commentary on the famous Cash family.

Broadway Street is the heart of Nashville for entertainment, and the acquisitive. On either side of this long thoroughfare there are the honky tonks with restaurants serving delicious Southern fare, each with its own band. At twilight, crowds throng these venues to forget their cares and let their hair down. The bands tune up, the liquor flows freely and to use a common cliche, “the joint is a – jumping”. If shopping is your preference, you are not starved for choice specially if you are after rare CD’s,DVD’s   – in short accessories with an unlimited range, also footwear and clothing. I add Nashville to my list of cities that never sleep ! On a historical note, it was in Nashville that the Confederate army suffered a crushing defeat in 1865 signalling the end of the American civil war.

Hit the highway to Memphis along the Mississippi Delta and one passes through beautiful country   –  you are now in the cradle of the civil war.  Memphis – Tennessee ! The city has been immortalised in song over the years by artistes of all genres of music. “Long distance information give me MemphisTennessee” sang Chuck Berry. Paul Simon spun it with “I’m going to Graceland / – Graceland Memphis Tennessee” in the song with the same title. The list is endless……But lets take a break from music and talk about another famous son of the South   – Martin Luther King the leader of the Civil Rights Movement, who was born in Atlanta. Martin Luther King was an American Baptist Minister and activist, who was a leader in the African-American Civil Rights Movement. He is best known for his role in the advancement of civil rights and racial equality, using non-violent disobedience or non compliance, based on Christian beliefs and the teachings of Mahatma Gandhi. His famous speeches have bee enshrined in the collective human memory for posterity ……”I have a dream….I have seen the promised land” and his famous words “God grant that this nation will rise again and a man will be judged by the content of his heart, not by the colour of his skin….” While the politics of the day favoured segregation, he fought for intergration, and paid the supreme sacrifice.

He was fatally shot at the Lorraine Motel in Memphis on the 4th April 1968. The Motel today while carrying the name in bold letters, is a museum which traces the history and struggle of the Civil Rights Movement from alpha to omega, complete with graphic photographs depicting the African-American’s struggle for racial equality.There is a wreath placed on the balcony outside the room where he was assassinated. I visited the Lorraine Motel which I found to be a very soul searing heart churning experience, and left wondering why “every prospect pleases, and only man is vile…..”

A true son of the soil, Mr.King was awarded the Nobel Prize for Peace because of his unrelenting struggle for human rights, the emancipation of his fellow man and restoring dignity to the underdog.

A trip to Memphis will be incomplete without a visit to the legendary Sun Studios which saw the birth of Rock’ n ‘Roll. This is where Elvis recorded the song which made him an overnight singing sensation, “Thats Alright Mama”,and the world sat up and took notice…..The next thing you know, a star was born…..As John Lennon of the Beatles later remarked, “Before Elvis there was nothing”. It was in this studio that the blending of blues and country music exploded in the big bang that was Rock ‘n ‘Roll. But what could be termed a near “spiritual” experience for fans of the late ‘King’ is a visit to Elvis’ family home, “Graceland”. From the flowers and painted signs outside the gates, to the tear stained cheeks of fans inside, one sees first hand the effect that Elvis and his music had, and still has on popular American culture. A visit to the ‘Garden of Meditation’ where Elvis, his parents, and his grandmother are buried is a tear jerking experience.

For a further in-depth look at the rich musical history of Memphis, visit the Rock ‘n ‘Soul museum. Opposite the museum is the Gibson Guitar factory which I cold not visit due to lack of time. In a quiet corner of Memphis is a block of apartments named “Lauderdale Mansions”. When Vernon Presley left Tupelo with his family for Memphis having secured a better job, they rented an apartment in this block. The young Elvis then was a truck driver while trying to get a foothold in the music business. Four apartments away from the Presleys, was another family with a youngster who was also working hard at his music hoping to make the scene. This was BB King who later became one of the finest Blues musicians of our time.

Next Stop: Natchez. Natchez was founded by the French in 1716 and was home to a flowering antibellum culture. As you travel to Natchez, you can take in more of the nation’s Southern history and see the gracious homes overlooking the Mississippi river. The phrase “Southern Hospitality” is not an idle cliche. It is evident if you fine tune your antenna from the time you arrive in Nashville. On my first day in Natchez, we enjoyed an enchanted evening at the home of Mr.Joe Stone which was built in the 1850’s. It contains a gallery collection of rare maps, a quaint billiards hall, and some exquisite ornamental glass work. But the enchantment of this magic evening was further enhanced when Mr.Stone entertained us to three pieces of classical music on a 1903 grand Steinway piano, delving into the inspiration and meaning of each piece he played. This was followed by some delectable wine. But there was more to follow. We then headed to the residence of Mrs. Esther Carpenter which was built in 1804, and heard the history and stories of this traditional colonial home and historic estate. A cordon bleu dinner  followed cooked by Mrs.Carpenter a former “Four Seasons” hotel chain Chef, who was named among the top 20 female

Chefs in America, by the magazine “USA Today”. The four course dinner with wine was indicative of the true taste of the deep South.

Amidst all the beauty, music, culture, and charm of the deep South, there is sadly an ugly underlying  scar of racial inequality which began from the days of slavery, worked its way through the civil war and was highlighted by the Civil rights Movement in the mid fifties to the early sixties during the protest marches in the fight for racial equality.This was a period when the Ku Klux Clan held sway striking terror into the hearts of the African Americans. Many activists and others who dared stand up to this lawless  breed of racist thugs were murdered, and the offenders were always set free if ever they were hauled up before a tribunal   – a stark indicator of the racial prejudice of the time. Anyone who saw the film “Mississippi Burning” will get the point I am trying to drive home. Race relations happily are much better now and the bad old days a thing of the past, although some scars never heal.

I was told that the Ku Klux Clan once had their headquarters in Natchez. Strolling through this beautiful city, the thought that racial hatred could  exist amidst such beauty is hard to imagine. A visit to the Frogmore Cotton plantation and cotton Gins to learn about the white gold of the Mississippi Delta (Cotton) is a visit which gives one an insight to the days when cotton was king. This plantation produces 900 bales each day, but what was most interesting were the reconstructed quarters where the slaves who worked the plantations were housed. Primitive and crude in the extreme, the slaves of the time  –  women and children included  –  were worked to the bone, and at the mercy of the plantation owners. Human rights were unheard of when these slaves were often considered to be sub human.

A jewel in the crown however is the Oak Alley Plantation.This classic antebellum home sits on the Mississippi river and amazes visitors with its quarter mile canopy of 300 year old oak trees originally planted by the slaves, and still flourishing. The branches of these majestic trees have in some magical way entwined with each other creating a marvellous canopy of arboreal artistry. The Oak Alley Home is the grand dame of Southern mansions, and well worth a visit. The term “Antibellum” refers to a neo-classical style of architecture which flourished in the Southern United States specially the ‘Deep South’, before the civil war.

What can be said about New Orleans that has not been said already ? The ambience of this lovely city with its distinctive French quarter oozes Creole charm, and embraces every visitor who enters the city. My introduction to New Orleans began with a visit to the New Orleans School of Cooking in the heart of the French Quarter to discover, and later enjoy the flair of Creole cuisine. The Chef introduced the visitors to the art of Creole cooking and then personally served the guests with his culinary creations at the regional meal which followed. The next day, after a hearty New Orleans breakfast and coffee which must have been made in heaven, I began my visit of the ‘Crescent city’ in the hands of a capable local guide who was a laugh a minute.

First stop was the atmospheric French Quarter, followed by visits to other places of cultural interest. The lively waterfront area should not be missed. For lovers of Jazz, Bourbon Street is the place to be….traditional Dixieland jazz,  in fact Jazz to suit any taste, you will hear it played in Bourbon Street, and played from the heart. If the heat gets to you, go into any restaurant, sip the drink of your choice and enjoy a little jazz piano as you cool off and watch the world go by. One needs more than a day to explore this vibrant city. The New Orleans airport is named after one the cities favourite sons, the trumpeter and Jazz musician Louis Armstrong. Its official name in aviation circles is “Louis Armstrong International Airport” . Which had me wondering what they will name, to honour another son of the city, Fats Domino still with us in his 88th year, living in the French quarter. His inimitable piano styling and rendition of pop favourites earned him many laurels in the world of popular music. His piano which was damaged during hurricane ‘Kathrina” is on display in the museum.

Listening to all this jazz, my memory took me back to some of my schoolmates at St. Anthony’s College who were keen jazz fans…..They were Andre Titus, Steve Morrell, Louis Macky, Winston Bailey and Ricky Muthukumaraswamy.  Chris Drieberg, Michael Macky, Peter Corteling and Leyrisse Vanderwert too, were adherents of the art of jazz.

A pristine part of the world is the Bayou Country and the Louisiana swamps only a short coach ride away across the Mississippi river. To reach the area one travels through the Jean Lafite National Historicalpark. Native guides will reveal the mysteries of the swamps and bayous and you will discover how the seafood from these bountiful waters provides a wide assortment of delectable local dishes. If you are a wildlife enthusiast, you are in the right place ! You can observe the nesting grounds of alligators, egrets, raccoons, nutria, and many species of snakes, all up close and personal !  And the variety of bird life makes this place an ornithologist’s paradise.

FINALE.

I crave the reader’s indulgence while I conclude with a near surrealist experience I had two days before I left New Orleans. I was staying in the 700 room Astoria Crowne Plaza Hotel in the heart of the city. My room was the last down a long corridor on the 4th floor. It overlooked a street on which there was a restaurant called “The Hustlers Inn”. I once wrote that the God of sleep Morpheus and I were not on friendly terms, and this particular night was no different to any other. Returning to my room after dinner and a long days touring, I switched on the TV, and settled for an old comedy thriller titled “Silver Streak” starring Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor. Hardly an hour had passed when the band in the “Hustlers Inn” struck up with full force !

For the next three hours I was treated to a wide repertoire of songs……Rock, Country, Blues, Reggae, Ballads, and some Jazz which I enjoyed immensely while lying awake in the darkness. Along with the music was the raucous sounds of the revellers as they cheered the band and tripped the light fantastic high on the hooch of the hour, probably Bourbon !

Finally, close to 1.00 am the band packed up and for a while there was silence, until suddenly the Harley-Davdison’s revved up and the revellers bidding their goodbyes rode away into the night.  Around 1.30 am I settled in to begin my nightly battle with Morpheus. I may have dozed off for around thirty five minutes when the sweet sounds of a lone saxophone from the “Hustlers Inn” invaded my reverie. “Sweet” is an understatement. It was a sound from an ethereal world.I lay back and listened to the lone saxophonist as he poured his heart out in the music he played. At times his music had the energy of a primeval forest….the next instant in sharp contrast, he played a few notes soft and low in a melody which had you waltzing on top of the world in a Shangri La where you could hear the music of the wind rustling the leaves of the trees, and the ripples of a gently flowing stream. I knew then that this was no ordinary musician. The man – whoever he was  – was a teacher. There was a message in his music which had the power to heal souls and mend broken dreams……In that dark night somewhere in time, our minds met on a  psychic plain………..the teacher I never knew. I am sure he makes the world a better place with his music. He certainly did it for me that night.

Travel is not merely boarding a plane for some foreign destination. It is a journey stretching to a land just beneath your conscious mind, mapped out with strawberry fields and long and winding roads…… Roads leading to places which hold untold wonders if you fine tune your sensitivities with a totality of spirit.

May you always dance to the music of life.

Bernard VanCuylenburg.

 

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